Making Dog Food & Treats

Making your own dog food is more economical and easier than you might think. The alternative title for this article could also be “how to stop your dog from eating his own poop,” but I might not get as many readers because of the gross out factor.

Actually, I can’t be certain this will work, but of all the dog owners I’ve queried on this and the subject of dogs eating inappropriate things (including non-food items), they share one thing in common: They only feed their dogs dry kibble.

Think about it. Here is this wonderful creature with this amazing sense of smell (which goes along way toward tasting food as well), with the ability to sniff out mere traces of molecules, as studies have shown, and we are feeding it the equivalent of cardboard with flavoring and a large dose of yuck (read about animal digest, a common ingredient in many dog foods).

The same thing, day after day. Wouldn’t you grow tired of that?

And with this incredible nose, dogs intrinsically can determine the most nutritious item in front of them and will choose to eat it over any other item. Put a steak in front of them and a liver and they will eat the liver because it’s way more nutritious.

Sometimes I will test out a new brand of chip on my dog and if he won’t eat it I won’t either. Likely there is not enough nutrition to make it worthwhile. He can be choosey because he is well fed and not starving and desperate for nutrition.

You know that if a dog is constantly seeking out nutrition in poop, he is likely in need of a diet re-evaluation. If you ask a vet or a pet-food expert, they may steer you into buying more products designed to curb your dog’s tendencies, but then you are just shelling out more money on a crap-shoot (ha-ha) and not really addressing the underlying issue.

Now I’m not claiming to be a nutrition expert, but am simply laying out one theory that so far has borne good results.

My conclusion is this: dogs have evolved eating our scraps for more than 5,000 years, and so that is actually what they are used to eating and as long as what we are eating is healthy, is perfectly fine to share it with them.

I don’t buy the hooey about “people” food being bad for dogs. There is no such thing. There is high-quality and low-quality food and stuff that is barely recognizable as food.

I don’t think we have to wind the clock back further to the “wolf days” before the dog was domesticated (what proponents of the raw diet believe), but I do believe that we could have fewer vet bills and behavioral issues in the long run if we just gave our dogs a bit more “real” food to eat.

By “real” food I mean higher quality food and a variety of food items, excepting a few no-no foods like raisins, raw onions and chocolate.

Now for the fun part…what I actually feed my dogs and how I came to cooking it myself.

It was during the first major dog food scare over ingredients coming from China that were causing organ failure in dogs that I started to contemplate making my own dog food. I bought a couple of books on dog nutrition and consulted my vet.

My vet was against it as she didn’t think it would be possible to get the critical calcium/phosphorus balance in the diet (she insisted I include organ meat, which I do). During this time, I was feeding my young dog a combination of canned and dry food, and purchasing dried chicken and liver treats for snacks.

I researched the dog food brands and tried to find a high quality brand, but it seemed like most of them got their ingredients from China, and it was hard for them to trace the ingredient origins much further. This did not sit well with me, and at every meal I watched my dog’s reaction to the food.

Usually the first day he was enthusiastic enough, but as the days progressed he was less and less interested, and by day 4 or 5, didn’t want to eat it. I wonder if he got a bad feeling from it.

Rather than try to coax him to eat something that was likely not so great, I would switch to a brand I thought might be better, but the same thing happened over and over. Finally, a light went on in my head and I decided that if I purchased meat when it went on sale, I might be able to actually make the wet food myself for cheaper that it cost me to buy it in the cans.

I buried myself in my doggie nutrition books and also looked for recipes online. Finally I settled on one that seemed to address most of the recommendations:

Amanda’s Homemade Dog Food

This recipe feeds my two standard poodles for about 12 days, and makes about 18 lbs of food, which we put in 24 oz containers and freeze. Each container feeds both dogs for one day.

  • 10-12 lbs muscle meat
  • 2-3 lbs organ meat
  • 12 cups cooked rice (4 cups dry)
  • 6  medium carrots
  • 4 medium yams
  • ¼ cup seaweed
  • ¼ cup crushed eggshells or bonemeal

To cook the meat, I purchased a 5 gallon tamale pot from Target for $19. We throw in everything together except the seaweed and eggshells, which can be added after the other ingredients are cooked. Also, we pre-steam the carrots since they take so long to soften.

It’s important for all ingredients to be soft and cooked so they will get down the chute of the grinder without clogging it up.

Cooking will usually take a couple of hours and it only needs minimal stirring after it’s been brought to a boil and covered and put on low.  During this time you can relax or set up the grinder and containers for the next part.

We got our first grinder from Bed Bath and Beyond (a Cuisinart), but it kept breaking so we returned it. I researched grinders on Amazon.com and ended up getting one that was the best reviewed and haven’t been sorry. It’s worth spending about $200 on it and will save you many headaches later.

Once all the ingredients are cooked and removed from heat, get out a couple of large mixing bowls to capture the ground mixture and start putting your items down the chute and watch them come out as dog food on the other end!

This is not a quick process but more of a zen-like one. You must do it at a fairly slow pace so things don’t get jammed up. It should take about 30 minutes. After you have finished you can mix in the seaweed and crushed eggshells (or bonemeal). Voila! Dog food!

Line up your containers and start filling them with a big spoon. I try to make sure there are no air pockets as this will allow them to keep better when they are frozen. When you are done you should have about 12+ containers. Keep one fresh one in the fridge and put the rest in the freezer.

For our dogs, we simply give them each a quarter serving per meal, and take out a new container every day to thaw (takes about a half day). My dog is now a happy camper and never gets tired of his food.

I also “free” feed him dry kibble, meaning it’s always available if he feels hungry. He often nibbles on it after his meal if he’s still hungry. You might think he’d get over weight, but he doesn’t. People always remark about the ideal weight of my dogs.

After this became a routine, there was one thing left for me to do: make my own dog treats. This may sound like a lot of work but it’s actually quite easy if you have the right equipment. I purchased a dehydrator from Amazon and it’s been a wonderful addition to my kitchen.

For treats, all I do is purchase some chicken or beef, slice it up, and put it on the dehydrator trays and leave it overnight on the dehydrator’s beef jerky setting. When I get up the next morning, “Voila!” fresh dog treats.

We also make spiced beef jerky for ourselves, along with wonderful dried fruit. The dehydrator can also be used for rising bread dough and many other things. It continues to be a beneficial purchase.

So in conclusion I can say that it’s really not that hard to do if you make it a routine, and you will feel better about knowing a little bit more about what is in your dog’s food.

And your dog, when he knows he’s going to get a satisfying nutritious meal twice a day and high quality snacks in-between, he’s not going to desperately scan the countertops every chance he gets, so see what kind of scrap he can steal.

I also make sure to give my dogs tidbits of what I’m eating so they don’t ever have the urge to sneak food. So if your dog is having issues, I definitely recommend trying some home-cooked meals, or at the very least, some canned food if all you are feeding is dry.

Both you, and your canine companion, will rest easier.

Taking Time to “Heel”

Growing up in Southern California I’ve been used to seeing dogs on leashes at all times, unless I’m at a dog park. I knew there were other parts of the world where people were able to walk off-leash with their dogs, but I had only seen it in the movies—until I visited Austria, that is.

On my first day there, sitting in my first café, I noticed an ordinary enough man walking at a regular pace towards me. Then I saw the astonishing part…his dog was walking right next to him, calm as can be, and there was no leash in sight. I tried not to be obvious but I was staring, and watched them until they were out of sight. Neither man nor dog seemed at all surprised at the situation. It was just like an every day occurrence to them…because it was an every day occurrence.

Turns out that Austrian folk talk their dogs into restaurants (where they happily lie at their owner’s feet), on trains (where they are required to wear “cages” or muzzles), on busses, you name it. People rarely, if ever, bother with leashes.

How is this possible, you might ask? Well, it all starts with the basic “heel” training you are likely familiar with but rarely enforce. Many people these days opt for the retractable leashes (I used to use these before I knew better) because they have so little time to exercise their dog that this serves as their only form of exercise, so why not let the dog run back and forth a little?

Yes, I can see the logic in this…however, before you give your dog this kind of freedom, you need to establish some rules first. Your dog needs to know that his place when walking out in public is by your side, not in front of you and not behind you. This is important for several reasons. Dogs need to have rules in place, and feel more comfortable when they know what the rules are, what their role is, and when you expect it of them.

[pullquote]Teaching your dog that the proper place to walk in public is at your side will give you more control over your dog, and give your dog more security about where his place is supposed to be.[/pullquote]This does not mean that you can never let them wander on a longer lead…this comes later. Teaching your dog that the proper place to walk in public is at your side will give you more control over your dog, and give your dog more security about where his place is supposed to be. You may love dogs, but not everyone feels this way, and they will appreciate that you keep your dog close at hand and not have to worry about whether or not your dog will come in contact with them.

Other dog owners will appreciate it as well, because they will know that you have control of your dog and they don’t have to worry about an unwanted dog encounter. They may be training their dog, or their dog may not be friendly towards other dogs, so when you are walking down city sidewalks, especially, this is the most courteous and responsible course of action.

Your dog may respond well to your holding the leash close, or it may be a chore to keep him held back, in which case you will save yourself from a lot of arm strain by investing in an easy walk harness, which has a clasp in front of the dog’s chest rather than on the dog’s back. The same company also makes a head harness, which some people prefer, but I find the chest harness is sufficient (I’ve also had dogs pull out of the head harness). Connecting the leash at the chest causes the dog to turn himself around if he pulls too hard, so eventually he gives up trying to pull.

off-leash heelingSince your dog’s instinct after being cooped up all day long in the house will be to want to run, you may want to play a little ball with him before going out for your walk. I recommend setting a routine where you keep the dog on a fairly short leash so the dog stays beside you when you are on city sidewalks, and then when you get to a park or a grassy area, give him more leash and let him sniff around as much as he wants to. You may also let him sniff and mark bushes when he his on a short leash, but only within the constraints you have set for him.

Remember that you dog looks to you to know what is appropriate, and when he knows the “routine,” it will be both reassuring and something he looks forward to. Ideally you should walk your dog once in the morning and again in the evening, so he has something to look forward to, and you will get a bit of fresh air in the bargain.

Photo Credit: Johan Appelgren (top), redteam

Combat Doggie Boredom

Sometimes the things that make a dog particularly desirable for us—intelligence, attentiveness, playfulness, youth—are the very things that can work against the dog owner when a dog is left to its own devices. None of us really want to leave our dogs alone, but sometimes it’s unavoidable.

As hidden doggie cams have shown, dogs get bored when left along with nothing to keep them occupied, and they will often get into “trouble” precisely because they are trying to find things to keep their little doggie brains occupied. A plush toy will only go so far to keep your dog busy, and then he or she will seek out other occupations such as chewing, swallowing small objects, barking incessantly, digging, howling, pacing, etc.

Many breeds have been created to look like stuff animals, and sometimes people forget that dogs are living, breathing beings that need stimulation just like we do. Clearly they don’t require the level of activity that humans require, but enduring hours of nothingness into perpetuity could make even the most steadfast companion go a little nuts.

Unfortunately we all can’t stay at home to play with our pets on a daily basis, but there are many ways you can make small inroads into keeping your best friend in a healthy state of mind, and not all of them cost money.

One of my personal favorites is to save all my extra paper goods (that would have ultimately gone into the trash or recycle bin, and re-use them one last time as a doggie puzzle or treat container. I save cardboard boxes, paper towel tubes, toilet paper tubes and paper bags, and any paper based packing materials.

When my dogs look bored, I get out one of my saved “containers” and put a few treats inside, and then close it up again and place it by the dog and encourage him to “find the treat” inside. It doesn’t take much prompting for him to fall to the task with gusto.

My female dog finds boxes a bit too much effort, but she LOVES paper bags and cardboard tubes, so I save those for her. It’s super easy to just pinch closed the ends of the tubes. Granted it takes her less time, but it’s still fun for her.

Another way I make my “leaving the house” time more acceptable for my dogs is to set up a “treasure hunt” with tiny bits of treats that I “hide” all over the house. Most of them are in plain sight but they still have to sniff them out and it takes them much longer to finish this game, and even after they have found most all of the treats they will continue to search for awhile.

I love staying and watching them playing this game, as well, because it’s so rewarding to see them keenly attuned to discovery…ears pricked forward, neck stretched out, eagerly scenting the air…isn’t this the type of activity they are really built for, after all?

Of course, these methods aren’t a substitute for walks (which stimulate their brain when they sniff along the route) and exercise (which keeps their brain chemistry optimal), but they help.

For those of you willing to shell out some cash to keep your dog busy, doggie puzzle toys are becoming more popular, and will keep your pooch occupied for a longer period. If you have friends with dogs you could set up an exchange to trade puzzle toys when your dogs get them figured out. Typically these puzzles will have varying degrees of difficulty, and some will let you work up to the hardest level so your dog doesn’t get so discouraged that he gives up before finding the treats.

Another way to keep your dog’s mind busy is to purchase a few DVDs (or shoot your own video at the dog park) and play it in your TV or computer monitor. You could also find a doggie webcam and leave your computer one while you are gone.

If you have any tried and true methods to keep your own pooch occupied, please share in the comments!

Photo Credit: Vaughn Hannon (top) and Silly Eagle Books

Low Cost Spay/Neuter Resources

Many people would like to spay or neuter their pets but find the cost prohibitive. If you would like to find low-cost spay/neuter services, we hope you will find the following information helpful.

  • SPAY/USA, a program of The Pet Savers Foundation, is a nationwide network and referral service for affordable spay/neuter services.Call 1-800-248-SPAY (7729) or go to www.spayusa.org for more information. Hours are Monday-Friday from 9 am- 4:30 pm (Eastern time).
  • Actors and Others for Animals provides FREE spay/neuter for pit bulls and pitbull mixes, as well as Rottweiler and Rottweiler mixes. Participants must meet certain qualifications. For more information, please call (818) 755-6045 or (818) 755-6323.
  • The L.A. Spaymobile state-of-the-art mobile clinic provides free spay and neuter surgery for dogs and cats living with income-qualified families in the City of Los Angeles. If you receive a Department of Water and Power bill, then you live within the city limits. For information on qualifications, as well as a schedule of clinic locations, visit L.A. Animal Services website at www.laanimalservices.com or call (800) 772-9452 to make an appointment.
  • Try a zipcode search on the ASPCA website to find providers in your area.